Tucked in between the Vindhyachal ranges and Malwa plateau, Bhopal, capital of Madhya Pradesh, has a history going to the ancient times. And a city without a history is a poor city indeed. Virtually located in the heart of India, Bhopal has embedded a many-splendor heritage over the past millennium. From the pre-historic rock art of Bhimbaithka the great Parmar King Raja Bhoj who ruled Malwa region and its surrounding areas more than a thousand years ago, to the Gond rulers and the Pathans, the history of every era is deeply imprinted on the soil of Bhopal, enriching its culture. The city derives its name from Raja Bhoj. However, historical remnants like the rock paintings and the Buddhist stupa at Sanchi testify that the area has been a cultural and historical hotbed since centuries.
The fundamental of what is now the city of Bhopal was laid during the Gond dynasty. In late seventeenth century, when the Mughal Empire was disintegrating, Sardar Dost Mohammed Khan of the Mughal army got a toehold on the borders of Bhopal. He was commander of the army posted at Mangalgarh, which lies to the north of modern-day Berasia. Soon, he usurped Mangalgarh and also annexed Berasia. When his nephew assassinated the Queen Rani Kamlapati’s husband, the Afgan Sardar ingratiated her by eliminating the nephew and restoring her tiny kingdom. In turn, the Rani gave him a handsome sum of money and Mouza village near Bhopal. Upon the death of this last Gond Rani, Khan took full control of her realm and established his first capital 20 kilometers from today’s Bhopal at Jagdishpur. He rechristened its Islamnagar and built a small fort and some palaces at his new capital.
In the first quarter of eighteenth century, he embarked the construction of a new and bigger fort in Bhopal proper. Situated on the northern bank of the magnificent Upper Lake, right across the old fort and palaces of Rani Kalampati on the southern side, he named the new fort Fatehgarh. Parts of the Rani’s 33-year-old palace still exist in the Kamala Park and this area is still known as ‘Purana Quila.’
Though Sardar was the virtual ruler of Bhopal, he did not don the mantle of Nawab or ruler. He still acknowledged the suzerainty of the declining Mughal Empire. His descendants, however, were more practical and laid the foundation of an independent state. What followed during most of the eighteenth was in the best traditions of those times – war with hostile neighbors eying the state for its verdant forests, magnificent lakes, benign climate and fertile land.
And there were intrigues galore within the ruling family for accession to the throne. Relatives aspiring to capture the state rebelled and were crushed by loyal generals. Amidst pressures from neighbors, a brave soldier and administrator, Nawab Wazir Mohammad Khan, created a truly strong state after fighting several wars, withstanding sieges of the fort for as long as six months and annexing neighboring areas.
While the new rulers were strengthening their foothold, seeking help from British, reaching a sort of truce with neighboring states like Indore, Gwalior and Nagpur, not to mention the Pindaris, a unique mixed culture was also evolving in Bhopal. When peace prevailed, even the rough and soldierly Pathan rulers acquired a taste of culture and several of them indulged in poetry. They also started paying attention to the development and beautification of Bhopal and general welfare of its inhabitants. They built new localities and palaces, created innumerable gardens in and around Bhopal, established a revenue system, created employment opportunities and even added a few lakes to the already existing two major lakes of Bhopal. The assimilation of culture strengthened when the rulers appointed Hindus as their chiefs of army, Diwans, high civil officers, tutors to the princess and the elite, allocated funds from their personal income for the Hindus welfare and gave land for the incomplete temples. The Hindus, on the other hand, bravely and loyally for the protection of Bhopal, on occasions saved the life of rulers and preferred advice to them at crucial moments.
During most of the nineteenth century and the first quarter of the 20th century, the state was ruled by its four famous Begums. Though different in nature and outlook, and even educational qualifications, the four Begums were without doubts the visionaries who overcome palace intrigues, the general displeasure of the male-dominated society towards women rulers, and even the rebellion during 1857. They were carrying a mother like Qudsia Begum, who took her dinners only after receiving news every night that all her subjects had taken meals; harsh like Sikender Begum who crushed the 1857 mutineers of Bhopal with an iron hand and yet did not ignore the welfare of her people; romantic like Shahjahan Begum who had a passion for stately buildings like her Mughal namesake emperor Shahjahan; and Sultan Jahan Begum who laid added stress on the upliftment of women and established a modern municipal system.
Development of Bhopal in different periods:
When Sardar Dost Mohammed Khan built the new fort Fatehgarh, he also built a moat around the town. The new capital, which had shifted from Islamnagar, was more convenient because of its proximity to the vast source of water, The Upper Lake, and also proved safer during the fierce wars afterward.
When the need for new residential areas was felt in the early nineteenth century after peace had been established, Nawab Jahangir Mohammed Khan established a cantonment named after him, about a mile away from the walled city. Jahangirabad, the new cantonment, was covered with tall ‘Barru’ grass. The people who shifted there, had to cut the grass to clear the area for making houses. Thus the term of ‘Barru-Kaat Bhopali’ came into being. The members of the old families of Bhopal, who have been residing in the city for many generations, still pride themselves as Barru-Kaat. Bhopalis and consider all others as non-Bhopali settlers.
Gardens and government buildings and barracks were built in Jahangirabad for royalties, British guests and soldiers, respectively. After the death of Jahanghir Mohammad Khan, Sikandar Jahan Begum during her regime built more roads, ordered reconstruction in the walled city and built magnificent buildings like Moti Masjid and Moti Mahal. Both have survived the vagaries of nature and time.
Shahjahan begum took over from Sikander Begum and concentrated on the development of area to the north of Bhopal’s walled city - Shahjahanabad which was perhaps among the few planned localities of India. It had accommodations for different classes of people with different professions. Besides her own palace - Taj Mahal - there were Barah Mahal, Ali Manzil, Be Nazir Complex, Mughal Pura, Amir Ganj, Nematpura, Khawaspura and Nawab Manzils still survive alongside the new localities that have come up lately. Taj Mahal is in a shamble but enough survives to give a glimpse of its glorious past.
Shahjahan Begum’s daughter Sultan Jahan Begum, who became the ruler at the turn of the 20th century, writes that when she took over from her mother, she had her own palace, Sardar Manzil ( the present office of Bhopal Municipal Corporation ). Though she liked it, it was in the heart of the town & rather thickly populated. She selected Tekri Maulvi Zai-ud-Din, one-and-a-half miles from the walled city and developed Ahmedabad, named after her late husband. Here she built a palace called Qasr-e-Sultani, now housing Saifia College. The royalty and other elite also constructed their houses here. She also installed the first water pump here a developed a garden Zie-ul-Abser. The garden has vanished but the pump still operates. Later a new palace was built nearby for her granddaughter – Abida Sultan. It was name Noor-us-Sabah. It has now been converted into a heritage hotel.
After independence, when Bhopal became the capital of the newly carved state of Madhya Pradesh, its population expanded rapidly. New localities like Tatya Tope Nagar, Shivaji Nagar, Arera Colony, Malviya Nagar, etc., came up. Sindhi refugees from Pakistan were accommodated in Bairagarh to the west of Bhopal.
With the establishment of BHEL’s plant, the BHEL township sprang up in the east. Today Bhopal has expanded far beyond these localities. With modern facilities, it has metamorphosed into a fast growing metropolis. Despite its burgeoning population, Bhopal has retained its charm of yore. It is a city where one finds an enhancing mix of the ancient, the medieval and the modern. For a taste of the ancient, one has only to visit the stupas at Sanchi, Bhimbaithika for rock paintings, and the Bhojpur temple; for the medieval there are the palace, havelis and mosques within the walled city; and for the modern, one has the new posh residential areas, five-star hotels and business districts such as Maharana Pratap Nagar.
Fairs & Festivals
Madhya Pradesh is great confluence of cultures, each having its own distinct identity. There are a number of ethnic groups spreads all over this vast state. There are tribal in Bastar, Jhar and Jhabua. Each tribal group has its own customs, traditions and attires. The different regional ethnic groups like Punjabis, Maharashtrians, Bengalis, Keralites,Tamilians, Oriyas, Rajasthanis and even religious groups like Muslims, Sikhs, Christians and Buddhists all provide vibrant colors to the cultural scene of Madhya Pradesh. While several festivals are common to all the communities, some are associated with particular groups but celebrated with joy and verve by all. In other words, festivity forms the substance of Bhopal. For those interested in classical art and culture, there are magnificent Khajuraho Festival of Dance and Music, the Tansen Music Festival at Gwalior, the Kalidas Festival of Performing Art and Poetry at Ujjain, the Lokrang Festival of Tribal Arts at Bhopal, and the annual cultural festival organized by Bharat Bhawan
JANUARY-FEBRUARY
Lohri: The year begins with the celebration of the Punjabi festival of Lohri. The festival that marks the end of winter is not limited to members of Punjabi community any more Different communities now join the celebrations with Punjabi dance and foot-tapping music. The occasion is celebrated in the second week of January.
Makar Sankaranti: Celebrated in the second week of January, Makar Sankaranti has both religious and social significance. Devotees take early morning dips in sacred rivers. The festival celebrates the harvest season. Colorful Kites dot the skies and people distribute sweets among friends, relatives and neighbors.
Basant Panchami: Usually falling in the third week of January, Basant Panchami heralds the arrival of spring. It is the time of the year when flowers are in full bloom and the koel’s cry can be heard everywhere. This festival is no longer limited to the rural areas. Dance, music programs and kite flying contests are organized to celebrate this festival in urban areas also.
Mahashivarati: On a moonless night in February every year, occurs the night of Shiva, the destroyer. This is the night when he is said to have performed the Tandva or the dance of creation, preservation and destruction. Devotees of Shiva fast during the day and maintain a long vigil during the night. In temples all across the country, bell ring, sacred texts are chanted and traditional offerings of leaves and milk are made to the Shiva lingam, the phallic symbol of the God.
MARCH
Holi: One of the biggest festivals of India, particularly in North India, Holi, falling in the middle of March, is the festival of colors. It is celebrated with gusto all over state and is not confined to just the day of Holi. The celebrations continue till the fifth day, Panchami. In some places, in fact, Panchami is celebrated with more enthusiasm than Holi. Rising above all barriers of religion, caste and creed, people splash colors on each other. Legend has it on this day Lord Vishnu set ablaze demon Holika to save the life of devotee Prahlad. Pyres are lit on the eve of Holi and are kept burning at crossings till Panchami. This is also the time when people exchange sweets and consume bhaang. The weather is at its best in March in Madhya Pradesh and it is during this time that wheat and other crops are harvested
Ram Navami: Ram Navami marks the ninth day of the birth of Lord Rama. People throng Ram temples for special offerings of pooja and recite the epic, Ramayana. Kalash Yatras and cultural programs are also organized on this occasion.
Mahavir Jayanti: Lord Mahavir founded Jainism, one of the most important religion in India. This festival celebrates his birthday. Prayers in temples, processions, tabeaux and Kalash Yatras are organized to celebrate the day.
APRIL – MAY
Baisakhi: This marks the beginning of the Hindu New Year. Celebrated in the middle of April, this is also the harvest season and a good harvest adds further color to the festival. Baisakhi is celebrated with a lot of vigor in Punjab, the granary of India. In Madhya Pradesh also, all communities participate in the festivities with equal enthusiasm. On this day, the tenth Sikh Guru, Guru Gobind Singh, organized the sikh brotherhood and created Khalsa. In the month of May, when the heat is at its peak, Akshay Tritiya is also celebrated. A large number of marriages are also solemnized around this day.
May Day: May Day, the universal celebration of workers, is marked by rallies, meetings and symposium during May.
AUGUST
Independence Day: August is the month when the heaven open up. Rains saturate the earth and the whole country gets covered with the green carpet. Lakes and ponds are filled to the brim. Streams and rivers overflow. On the fifteenth of this month, the country celebrates its independence from British. Patriotic fervor marks this fortnight. Patriotic songs fill the air. Independence Day parades are organized in all major cities, the national tricolor is unfurled over all government buildings. Educational institutions and other organizations hold colorful functions.
Rakshabandhan: This is rather unique festival. On this day, sisters tie rakhis on the wrist of their brothers to renew their pledge of love, while brothers renew their pledge to protect their sisters. It is celebrated on the full moon night of the month of Shravan, or Sawan. Several days before the festival, markets are flooded with bright, colorful wristbands. Shops are bedecked with rakhis of all hues and some even have different themes. Sisters perform the traditional aarti of their brothers who in turn give gifts to their sisters.
SEPTEMBER
Janmashtami: September heralds another series of important festivals towards the end of the monsoon season. Janmashtami, the eighth day after the birth of Lord Krishna, is celebrated with much fanfare. Temples across the state are decorated with lights and tableaux depicting various events from LORD Krishna’s life are taken out. Huge crowds gather at temples to offer prayers.
Ganesh Chaturthi: This is another major festival of the Hindu year. Idols of Lord Ganesh are installed all over the city. For nine days, special poojas are offered to the Lord. The celebrations conclude with the immersion of idols in lakes and rivers. In Bhopal, Gwalior and Indore, this festival is celebrated with great public participation.
OCTOBER
Navratri: The festivities, which start after the end of monsoon, continue till NOVEMBER. They are marked with nine days of fasting and pooja by the devout. This festival commemorates the victory of Goddess durga over demon Mahishasur. Durga temples are illuminated and huge crowds gather there in the evenings. After the nine days of Navratri end, idols of Goddess Durga are taken out for emersion. In Bhopal, so many idols are constructed that emersions continue on the banks of Upper Lake for almost 24 hours.
Dusshera: It marks the victory of good over evil. On this day, Lord Rama slaved demons king Ravana, his brother Kumbhakarna and son Meghnad. Huge effigies of the multiheaded Ravana are built. These effigies are stuffed with firecrackers. They are set afire in the presence of huge crowds. The episodes of Ramayana, the epic, are enacted and Ram Lilas organized prior to the burning of the effigies on Dussehra. On this occasion, thousands from rural areas and suburbs throng to the city. The weather is also salubrious around this time of the year.
NOVEMBER
Diwali: This festival is celebrated in Madhya Pradesh with unparalleled gaiety. The festivals of lights celebrates the return of Lord Rama to the kingdom of Ayodhya after fourteen years of exile, during which he killed Ravana and rescued Sita. Besides temples, houses of citizens are illuminated with electrical lights and traditional earthen lamps. Crackers are burnt, firework displays organized and sweets exchanged to mark the joyous occasion. Pooja is offered to Laxmi, Goddess of wealth, in every house at dusk in anticipation of her arrival.
DECEMBER
Christmas: It celebrates the birth of Lord Jesus Christ and is the major festival of the year. The festival is no longer confined to the Christian community. It has now become an occasion celebrated from people from all communities. Hotels organize special functions and offer special cuisine. People offer greetings and sweets to each other. Special programs are organized at churches. People set up Christmas trees in their houses from which they hang beautiful gifts and baubles for their children
Id-ul-Zuha: The date of this major festival of Muslims is determined by the lunar calendar. This festival remembers the sacrifice of Prophet Abraham who offered his son as sacrifice based on god’s wishes. The son was exchanged for a lamb at the last moment by the wishes of the almighty. The meat is distributed among neighbors, relatives and the poor. Again special morning prayers are organized in major mosques before offering the sacrifice. This occasion also coincides with the Haj pilgrimage. A spirit of the festivity pervades.
BHOPAL---The City of Lakes
Bhopal offers a mix of traditional splendor at its very best and a feel of the modern city. This allows people who visit Bhopal to mix business with pleasure. With lush green environs coupled with natural beauty within the city limits as well as surrounding it, Bhopal is an ideal place to unwind oneself. If that is not enough, an era of nawabi opulence with historic monuments in its full architectural grandeur awaits you in Bhopal.
Places of Interest
Taj-ul-Masjid:
Standing tall in the heart of old Bhopal, is this edifice, which has the distinction of being the largest mosque in the country. This overwhelming colossal building is poised in the midst of the city, making it possible for you to visit it from any of the vintage points in Bhopal. The credit of building this architectural wonder goes to Shah Jehan, the third women ruler of Bhopal (1868-1901), who instituted the city’s postal system, railways and waterworks.
A grand main hall with massive pillars and ceilings embellished with ornate petalled designs, arched roofs, 18 stores high octagonal minars, marble domes, wide courtyards, and untarnished marble flooring are the most elegant elegant features of this peerless and unparalleled monument of architectural excellence. People from all walks and from all over the country participate in the three-day Ijtima congregation held annually.
Jama Masjid:
Built in 1837 by Kudsia Begum, there are some strikingly beautiful gold spikes in the minarets of this solemn structure. One of the ‘must-see’ places in Bhopal that links the old city magic with its contemporary form.
Moti Masjid:
Moti Masjid, although, is architecturally akin to Jama Masjid of Delhi, has a unique appeal. Built in 1860 by the daughter of Kudsia Begum (Sikandar Jehan), this mosque stands tall in Chowk Bazar, the bustling shopping place of Bhopal.
Shaukat Mahal & Sardar Manzil:
Designed by a Frenchman, said to be a descendant of the Bourbon kings of France, Shaukat Mahal is an architectural marvel and a cynosure of all eyes. Placed magnificently at the entrance of the Chowk Bazaar area, guarding the heart of the walled city, it is a fascinating fusion of styles in Occidental idioms, which sets it apart from the predominantly Islamic architecture of Bhopal.
Just near Shaukat Mahal, is the elegant Sadar Manzil, the hall of public audience of the former rulers of Bhopal.
Van Vihar:
Van Vihar National Park nestles snugly in the heart of Bhopal’s tourist zone. With its diverse natural beauty and varied wildlife, the ambiance warms the cockles of the tourist’s heart. Covering nearly 445 hectares of land, the park harbors the wildlife of Madhya Pradesh in a near-natural environment.
The five-km drive of Van Vihar will make you feel closer to nature and its wonders. The long stretch of road meanders uphill, flanked on one side of the Upper Lake. You can just sally forth or take your vehicle along. Van Vihar or Nature Interpretation Center is a place of great exhibits, pictures of wildlife, banners, footprints of animals in plaster-of-Paris and horns of sambhar, deer, gazelles, blackbuck, etc. Van Vihar also plays host to many migratory birds from the Himalayan region from November to March. The park gives a feeling of Safari-like adventure while you can spot tigers, bison, deer, albino bear, crocodiles, exotic migratory birds, etc. The place is open all days except Tuesdays.
Museum of Man or Maanav Sangrahalaya:
Those interested in making a foray into man’s life and unravel the past and traditions of a bygone era, Indira Gandhi Rashtriya Manav Sangrahalaya is a place to be in. History of human settlements has been recreated with an eye for detail. Handmade paintings have been made by tribal, who are heir to a legacy of an art which transforms ordinary mundane utensils into objects d’art. ’Costal Village‘
